The Long Tail of Terroir
by Richard ~ July 13th, 2008. Filed under: Questions.Okay, so I am a bit obsessed with The Long Tail concept.
If you haven’t read Chris Anderson’s book, it’s just out in paperback with a couple new chapters. Run to get it. If you have any interest in the niche-ification of the entire marketplace (and you should) then this is a Must Read. (In fact, I shared the post with Chris and he shot me a nice note after that post to say “you get it.”)
Question: What would the Long Tail look like applied (extremely) to the concept of terroir?
Terroir is fancy French way of saying that wine has a way of translating the place where the grapes were from into the bottle….the climate and geography and soil and air the grapes grew up in. (With regard to the French, and not to deny their great wine history, my friend Israeli winemaker Asaf Paz said recently, “We were producing wine when the French were still hitting each other with sticks.” Love that attitude, bro!)
Clearly people believe they can tell the difference between California wines, and French wines, and wine from Australia or Argentina…and some can even tell a wine from specific regions within those geographies, like Paso Robles or Mendoza.
And Israeli wine critic Daniel Rogov told us in a recent interview that Israeli wines have “sunshine” in them and “spice” and Mediterranean herbs.
But what if we take terroir to its logical extreme conclusion?
I’m weary of what others refer to as the internationalization of wine – the fact that most wines have begun to taste like…..most wines, lacking personality and a sense of place and surprise.
I can’t speak for you, but I want to drink wines that are highly unique in flavor and aroma, like Zeev Smilansky’s Meishar 730 Cabernet Sauvignon from Israel. I have never tasted any other Cab quite like it. I was in Napa two weeks ago drinking Cabs 6 x’s the cost of Zeev’s wine and they all tasted the same to me! BORING. This is not to say they were “bad” – just boring and status quo.
Most of us live scattered lives today. We’ve scattered from our families as we move for jobs. I, for instance, have moved more than 15 times in my almost 40 years. I feel like I am from Nowhere and Everywhere at the same time.
Maybe that’s part of the reason I want the wines I drink to be from Somewhere. To root me to a place, to a land, to a terroir.
I think (hope) we’re seeing the niche-ification, the Long Tail of Terroir,on the horizon. A backlash against what’s status quo in wine, a reach by wine consumers for Place and Connection to places inside of places we maybe already love, like Israel or Turkey or Greece or your backyard, or wherever MEANS SOMETHING to you.
I want to know what the specific places I care about taste like through the wines I drink.
For instance, what does THAT place in the sun on that hill in the Galilee do to Merlot?
How does that rocky soil in that particular valley TASTE when it comes through in Shiraz?
How does the way the fog sits here in the mornings seep through into a glass of Pinot?
I’m talking about micro-terroir, guys. As in latitude and longitude to the decimal and degree.
And what if you could buy wine that way? Latitude and longitude. Spots on a hill, slopes in a valley, sunlight and fog.
The Long Tail of Terroir. The extreme next logical step of the concept of Place in a Bottle.
What if Israeli wineries marketed their juice, at least in part, like that.
“Here’s what the valley where David killed Goliath tastes like in Shiraz.”
“Here’s what happens to Sauvignon Blanc when you grow the grapes for it near where Jesus lived.”
“Here’s some Cabernet from near where the prophet Elijah sat in a cave and heard that still, small voice in the Carmel Mountains.”
All of a sudden Story and Place and Wine come together in new ways.
What if people in the US could sponsor grape plots in their favorite most meaningful places in Israel?
And then taste what that place does to a grape.
Talk to me.
I’ll post a Part Two of this concept soon but wanted to get this out of me as soon as possible.







July 15th, 2008 at 11:53 am
Richard,
I would like to see Israeli growers try to find indigenous varieties (that are probably long lost or forgotten) and try and recreate wines that were made in the region before Muslim rule.
July 21st, 2008 at 1:16 pm
Sadly, when you talked about individuality, it made me think of the difference of how I felt moving to Spain from the US. Here I see a dog hanging out in a bar run by guy who looks spry and younger than myself at 78. I see couples running a yarn shop, a young woman opening her first hairdresser joint, a gay couple open a fax and copy store. Sure, they may be from all over the world, but their store is unique, decorated with pictures of family and friends or with little personal accouterments. While the US, the frightening virus it can be, has spread the sterile mall approach across the world, where McDonalds, Burger King and Hard Rock Cafe, can be found everywhere. Every store is the same, identically the same, and every store can be found anywhere in the US. It’s one big consumer nightmare. Stripping down to something that is homogeneous, empty, without personality and void.
Now let’s apply this to wine. Am I seeing Chardonnay, Merlot or Syrah in every single blend, no, happily I am not. Are they not infiltrating Iberia as well? Sure, they are. But as we talked about before, it’s not the grape, as so much as the winemaking process. Chardonnay from California, Spain or Israel will taste completely different if we allow the “terroir” to come through. Strip the wine down to nothing, and maybe we have an argument. But as long as we remain “true” to the terroir, give me any grape that is conductive to the climate and conditions, and I you can show individuality and unique personality.
No matter where you go in the world, Hard Rock Cafe will always be the same. Always. But Iberia has done incredible wonders with foreign varietals, allowing their true beauty to come through. Israel can do the same, and has done the same, and I would happily support any project that emphasis the expression of both the grape and the land.